Awesomatix Gear Diff 2 - Build & Review
Awesomatix have recently released their new Gear Diff 2 (GD2). The new diff utilises Xray internals which are often considered to be some o...
https://www.thercracer.com/2013/11/awesomatix-gear-diff-2-build-review.html
Awesomatix have recently released their new Gear Diff 2 (GD2). The new diff utilises Xray internals which are often considered to be some of the best in the game. In this article I'll be building my GD2 and providing my comments along the way.
Awesomatix have provided an exploded diagram and cross section view to help with assembling the GD2.
Here are all the parts we need to make the GD2, I'll be using #3000 oil to start with.
As shown in the cross section we need to shorten the cross pin to 20.8mm. This is so that it can sit inside the case and move freely from side to side so it can self centre. To do this I installed the cross pin and marked the ends with a scalpel before grinding them down with a dremel. This got me close to 20.8mm and made sure I had taken equal amounts from each end. A little more work with the dremmel and the cross pin was finished.
Here is the cross piece installed, you can see that it sits inside the casing and does not protude.
Once the cross piece was ready I had to build the big half of the diff. On this side I installed the grub screw and outdrive to make it easier to work with whilst building.
The parts fit together beautifully, the kind of engineering excellence you can expect from Awesomatix products.
The small end is just as nice to assemble.
I assembled the small inner gears and cross piece before closing the diff so I could check the mesh.
The mesh was spot on after a trial fitting, very smooth with a backlash so small it's almost undetectable.
Now it was time to fill the diff with oil. The grub screws in each outdrive are there so the diff can be bled and completely free from air. This should make for more consistent and smoother operation.
I used a shock pump to help remove the air from the diff and filled it up even further than shown in the photo as to make sure the diff is completely full and free from air. Once closed I fitted the grub screw in the small end and turned the diff over to let the air go to the other side. To get any last little bubbles out I put the diff in the shock pump again. Only a small amount came out so I put the grub screw back in place.
Here is the completed diff.
In comparison to the GD1 the GD2 has a larger volume, larger internals and bleed screws. Turning it by hand the GD2 is obviously smoother but also a touch heavier, probably due to the larger volume of oil.
I'm looking forward to trying the GD2 out on the track. I leave you with some comparison photos of the GD1 and GD2.
Awesomatix have provided an exploded diagram and cross section view to help with assembling the GD2.
Here are all the parts we need to make the GD2, I'll be using #3000 oil to start with.
As shown in the cross section we need to shorten the cross pin to 20.8mm. This is so that it can sit inside the case and move freely from side to side so it can self centre. To do this I installed the cross pin and marked the ends with a scalpel before grinding them down with a dremel. This got me close to 20.8mm and made sure I had taken equal amounts from each end. A little more work with the dremmel and the cross pin was finished.
Here is the cross piece installed, you can see that it sits inside the casing and does not protude.
Once the cross piece was ready I had to build the big half of the diff. On this side I installed the grub screw and outdrive to make it easier to work with whilst building.
The parts fit together beautifully, the kind of engineering excellence you can expect from Awesomatix products.
The small end is just as nice to assemble.
I assembled the small inner gears and cross piece before closing the diff so I could check the mesh.
The mesh was spot on after a trial fitting, very smooth with a backlash so small it's almost undetectable.
Now it was time to fill the diff with oil. The grub screws in each outdrive are there so the diff can be bled and completely free from air. This should make for more consistent and smoother operation.
I used a shock pump to help remove the air from the diff and filled it up even further than shown in the photo as to make sure the diff is completely full and free from air. Once closed I fitted the grub screw in the small end and turned the diff over to let the air go to the other side. To get any last little bubbles out I put the diff in the shock pump again. Only a small amount came out so I put the grub screw back in place.
Here is the completed diff.
In comparison to the GD1 the GD2 has a larger volume, larger internals and bleed screws. Turning it by hand the GD2 is obviously smoother but also a touch heavier, probably due to the larger volume of oil.
I'm looking forward to trying the GD2 out on the track. I leave you with some comparison photos of the GD1 and GD2.
A very nice and comprehensive review of probably the best diff ever made.
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